Creative Chevon Cuisine Comes Out Around Midnight
Around 10:00 at Moxy Restaurant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, about 70 chefs, sous chefs, line cooks, garde-mangers, waiters, bartenders, and maître ds gathered to watch two teams of local chefs met for the Chefs After Dark challenge. This friendly competition among Maine and New Hampshire chefs has been a monthly event since 2014. Chefs are matched in experience and cooking styles and then provide “secret ingredients” that they must use to prepare two dishes within an hour. Jason Canty of Anneke Jans’ and a host of the series, says the event is a rivalry, “But we’re also close friends who talk about food constantly….”
On this particular night these chefs met the challenge: Jeremy Glover (Raleigh, Portsmouth, New Hampshire), Julie Cutting (Cure also in Portsmouth), Brett Cavanna (The Carriage House, Rye, New Hampshire), and Mark Segal, (LaCasita, Kittery, Maine). The main secret ingredient was Vermont Chevon.
Jeremy and Julie were the winners.
Jeremy created a twist on the classic Piedmontese dish Vitello tonnato using Vermont Chevon loin (instead of veal) and mackerel in place of the tuna. The loin was sliced “nice and thin” and topped with a mackerel mayonnaise. The dish was garnished with rhubarb dressed with extra virgin olive oil, salt, and slice onion tops. On a bed of Amaranth, which was cooked in goat stock, Julie layered spiced mole goat stew, topped with pickled Spaghetti squash and finished with cilantro sour cream.
Jeremy is quite passionate about the art of whole animal butchery and works with farms in New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine to source quality meat. He remarked that the Vermont chevon “was sweet and tender.” Julie usually puts a lamb shank on her menu every winter season and is working with Shirley to get a goat shank instead. She will also be introducing her patrons to ground goat shepherd’s pie!
Thank you to all the chefs who participated in this event and the Chef’s Collaborative for its support of goat meat producers in their Meat Matters program.
It will be the creativity of the chef community that will introduce delicious (and nutritious) goat meat to Americans.